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New Method Developed for Production of Cosmetics for Increasing Moisture-Retaining Ability of Skin Using Synchrotron Radiation (Press Release)

Release Date
24 May, 2010
  • BL40B2 (Structural Biology II)
Ichiro Hatta at the Industrial Application Division, Japan Synchrotron Radiation Research Institute (JASRI), developed a method for measuring micrometer-level structural changes of a biological specimen (the stratum corneum –the outermost layer of the skin) following treatment with a solution (a functional solution in this study) using a SPring-8 beamline and applied this method to verify the effects of cosmetics on the stratum corneum at the molecular level.

Japan Synchrotron Radiation Research Institute (JASRI)
Kwansei Gakuin University
Hoshi University

Ichiro Hatta at the Industrial Application Division, Japan Synchrotron Radiation Research Institute (JASRI; Tetsuhisa Shirakawa, President), developed a method for measuring micrometer-level structural changes of a biological specimen (the stratum corneum*1 –the outermost layer of the skin) following treatment with a solution (a functional solution in this study) using a SPring-8 beamline and applied this method to verify the effects of cosmetics on the stratum corneum at the molecular level. This was achieved through joint research with Noboru Ohta, a research scientist, and Naoto Yagi, the deputy director of the Research and Utilization Division of JASRI; Hiromitsu Nakazawa, an assistant of the Graduate School of Science and Technology of Kwansei University (Soichi Sugihara, President); and Yasuko Obata, an assistant professor of the Graduate School of Pharmaceutical Sciences of Hoshi University (Terumi Nakajima, President).

Using the Structural Biology II Beamline (BL40B2) at SPring-8, they succeeded in observing microscopic structural changes of the stratum corneum treated with cosmetic ingredients, which have been difficult to experimentally verify because of differences among living individuals. The effects of cosmetic ingredients on the stratum corneum were verified using horny cells from different individuals by a conventional measurement method. Therefore, it was difficult to determine whether the structural changes of the stratum corneum were due to the effects of the cosmetic ingredients or inherent individual differences.*2 In this study, the scientists developed a highly sensitive measurement method to observe only one specimen. They found that the effects of cosmetic ingredients can be detected at the molecular level when the structural changes of the stratum corneum due to cosmetic ingredients are observed by a highly sensitive method. In particular, they found the existence of a permeation pathway through horny cells, which are important for the moisture-retaining ability of the skin. This finding is expected to lead to the development of molecular-level strategies to develop cosmetic ingredients for increasing the moisture-retaining ability of the skin.

These research achievements were published in the academic journal Chemistry and Physics of Lipids in May 2010.

Publication:
"Novel method to observe subtle structural modulation of stratum corneum on applying chemical agents"
Ichiro Hatta, Hiromitsu Nakazawa, Yasuko Obata, Noboru Ohta, Katsuaki Inoue, Naoto Yagi
Chemistry and Physics of Lipids, vol.163 (2010) 381-389.

<Figure>


Fig. 1 Stratum corneum on outermost layer of skin

Fig. 1 Stratum corneum on outermost layer of skin
The stratum corneum consists of intercellular lipids and horny cells.




Fig. 2 Annual mean humidity in Tokyo (from the Official Site of Chronological Scientific Tables; data provided by Japan Meteorological Agency)

Fig. 2 Annual mean humidity in Tokyo
(from the Official Site of Chronological Scientific Tables;
data provided by Japan Meteorological Agency)
Relative humidity rapidly decreased in the 1960s and is still decreasing.



Fig. 3 Solution cell developed in this study
Fig. 3 Solution cell developed in this study

By irradiating a stratum corneum specimen and analyzing the intensity distribution of X-ray diffraction, the permeation pathways of limonene and ethanol in the stratum corneum can be observed at the molecular level.

Fig. 4 Measurement system used at SPring-8
Fig. 4 Measurement system used at SPring-8

Left: The specimen is placed on the front and the X-ray diffraction detector is set at the back.
Right: Solution cell invented in this study. Needles are used for injecting and removing the solution.


Fig. 5A Intercellular lipid permeation pathway

Fig. 5A Intercellular lipid permeation pathway
This was previously considered to be the main permeation pathway.




Fig. 5B Permeation pathway through horny cells

Fig. 5B Permeation pathway through horny cells
This is the pathway that was first observed in this study.




<Glossary>

*1 Stratum corneum
The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the epidermis and has a thickness of approximately 10 micrometers (a micrometer is one- millionth of a meter). It plays an important role in the barrier function of the skin. It also has a moisture-retaining function.

*2 Individual differences
Cells in different individuals have different DNAs. The properties of the skin differ from one individual to another, just as no two individuals have exactly the same face. Such differences are called individual differences.


For more information, please contact:
Dr. Ichiro HATTA (JASRI)
E-mail: mail